Me, Myself and Lord Byron Read online

  Me, Myself

  and

  Lord Byron

  Julietta Jameson

  Published in Australia in 2011 by Pier 9, an imprint of Murdoch Books Pty Limited

  Murdoch Books Australia

  Pier 8/9

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  Publisher: Colette Vella

  Project Editor: Elizabeth Cowell / Elena Gomez

  Editor: Anouska Jones

  Designer: Emilia Toia / Tania Gomes

  Text copyright © 2011 by Julietta Jameson

  The moral right of the author has been asserted.

  Cover design copyright © Murdoch Books Pty Limited 2011

  Front cover: image of woman copyright © Getty Images / Fabio Sabatini

  All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

  Every reasonable effort has been made to trace the owners of copyright materials in this book, but in some instances this has proven impossible. The author and publisher will be glad to receive information leading to more complete acknowledgments in subsequent printings of the book and in the meantime extend their apologies for any omissions.

  National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry

  Author: Jameson, Julietta, 1963-

  Title: Me, myself and Lord Byron [electronic resource] : a woman, a

  poet and a quest to reclaim the zest for life / Julietta Jameson.

  ISBN: 9781742664019 (eBook)

  Subjects: Jameson, Julietta, 1963---Journeys.

  Byron, George Gordon Byron, Baron,

  1788-1824--Journeys--Europe.

  Journalists--Australia--Biography.

  Europe--Description and travel.

  Dewey Number: 070.92

  For Gabrielle, Tony, Declan and Ronan,

  who remind me of why dreams are worth pursuing.

  Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Copyright

  Dedication

  Prologue

  Leaving

  Family Influence

  Geneva

  Lac Leman

  Milan

  Mira Porte

  School Days

  Padua

  Rome

  Venice

  A Sunshiny Day

  The Bells of Venezia

  Verona

  Ravenna

  Bagnacavallo

  Piazza del Popolo

  Pisa

  Mario

  Leaving Italy

  Greece

  Epilogue

  Coda

  Acknowledgments

  Prologue

  I am a born-again virgin. I must be. I haven’t felt this nervous about a date since I was seventeen, in the hour before I went out on my very first date with my very first boyfriend, who turned into my very first lover. I am exhilarated, exactly like I was when I was getting ready to go to see Xanadu or whatever the film was with that boy, and this is beyond ridiculous because it’s been about thirty years since then.

  I qualify as a born-again virgin on another front. I am quite sure there’s some statute somewhere that sets down how long a period of non-participation in carnal activity constitutes a reinstatement of virginal privileges. And under it, I could easily qualify to be sacrificed to the gods on a big open-air altar in some ancient land. Or be valued highly in certain cultures. Or marry in the Catholic church. I’m that virginal.

  This is what I am thinking as I torture my hair into smoothness, quite a battle considering my hair is curly and the air is about eighty per cent humidity in Byron Bay. There’s a reason why, in this high-end hippie enclave in the lush, leafy north of New South Wales, many miles from my Sydney home, the native maidens go au naturel, with tousled hair, no make-up and boho-chic flowing frocks. It’s the damn humidity. I want to look suitably minimally made up and definitely boho-chic and flowing, and I am putting an enormous amount of effort into this devil-may-care look, double what I might usually because the sodden elements want me to look less boho, more hobo. My efforts are paying off though. I seem to be winning the battle.

  I am in the pleasantly neutral bedroom of the apartment accommodation I have colonised for the weekend. My trusty MacBook is perched open on the bed and it is blaring The Killers out of my iTunes library as I move on to eye shadow and blusher. I spritz Acqua di Parma, the perfume that reminds me of bella Italia, the country I consider my spiritual home. The Killers too remind me of Italy these days. They have been my favourite band since I saw them at the Roman amphitheatre in Verona, only months ago. There is something about their authenticity and energy that has captured my musical heart. They remind me of my own newfound authenticity and energy as I sing along about spacemen and joy rides and the other quirky things their songs are apparently about. I don’t know what it all means, except it makes me happy. And right here, right now, that’s all I need.

  In a mere couple of hours, I will be meeting Gabriel for the first time face to face, in the beer garden of the Beach Hotel. We have, of course, conversed a lot via email since initially encountering each other on a dating site. He lives on the coast in southern Queensland, I in Sydney, so an earlier meeting was not possible. I had reason to come to Byron Bay, by way of my work as a travel writer; it’s only an hour or so from where he lives and so here, in Byron, the first meeting shall be. I’ve been quite taken by the way he has presented online but past experience lets me know to not bet the farm on things working out. Internet dating is an inexact science.

  And that’s cool, because here’s the thing: it’s not really the man I am so excited about. It’s me. It’s as if I am going on a date with my real self for the very first time. In the past six months, I have gone to the core of me, stared down my basest motivators, got my hands dirty pulling the plug on the mire of spiritual muck I’ve been wading in. I can’t say I’m completely free, because who knows what lurks in the subconscious out of sight. But I can say I am as clear as can be right now. To the best of my current abilities, I have addressed myself. And I feel as if I know me. More than I ever have.

  Of course as any snail that’s lost its shell will tell you—if it lives long enough—with shell gone comes vulnerability. Vulnerability is so great, the snail will tell you, feeling all light and airy and faster than ever without that big crusty shield on its back … until a big shoe comes along.

  It’s when I have moved from the bedroom of my Belongil apartment and am in the kitchen ironing my frock—bought new for my date, a floaty blue cotton floral wrap that dips and skims and falls in the right places and breathes and is so Byron Bay—that the big shoe hovers. I have not been naked with a man for some years. The last time a man saw me without clothes for the first time, I was (still only just) in my thirties. I am no longer in my thirties. I’m forty-six. Holy shit. That’s a big, heavy shoe.

  I have a friend I call Yentl. She is the queen of the set-up, the queen of dating advice, the queen of romance. She loves romance. Everyone needs a Yentl in their life. Some big heavy shoes can only be held up by the Yentls of this world. I put down the iron, grab my phone and call my Yentl.

  Yentl, whose r
eal name is Angie, is married for the second time, with an adorably bouncy, Idol-bound teenage daughter from her first marriage and a precious little boy from her second who has been to death’s door a few times with his asthma and has made Angie all the more sensitive to happiness and the world’s need for it. Her husband is one of those saintly-meets-sexy men who should be cloned.

  ‘Darl,’ she says, high pitched and thrilled. ‘Thank God you called me. What time are you meeting him? Make sure you text me from the toilet with regular updates throughout the evening.’

  I start crying. Annoying, because my make-up job is perfection, but also annoying because, for Heaven’s sakes, it’s only a date and I’m an adult and I have come so far. And I value myself. For the first time in my life, I do. This vulnerability caper is so, so new to me. I blurt out the nakedness thing.

  ‘Oh, JJ,’ says Angie, ‘I remember when I had to start dating again. It took enormous trust and courage. I was so scared, but I had to take a big breath and get out there. You really have to,’ she says.

  ‘I know,’ I say. ‘Honestly, I’m ready for this. But I’ve never felt more guileless in my life. It’s like I don’t have any tricks any more. I have no choice but to be me and that is the weirdest thing for me. I’ve always had a big old bag of tricks. I’ve had tap dances, jokes, magic tricks, whoopee cushions, smoke bombs; metaphorically speaking, you know, the big jokey diversions, the show-offy stuff, the disappearing act. Now all I have is me. I don’t know how to be anything but me any more.’

  ‘You’re ready, that’s all. You’re ready for the real deal.’

  ‘I know,’ I say quietly.

  ‘This bloke might not be it,’ says Angie. ‘He might be, but there’s a good chance he won’t be. What he is, though, is the beginning of you being out there, ready for the real thing. He’s also a possibility though. I mean, I would love it if he was the real deal. I only ask you don’t retreat again if he’s not the one. Promise me you won’t.’

  ‘I couldn’t retreat now if I tried.’

  It’s the truth. I have now put myself so far out onto the path that there’s no turning back.

  My journey to this point began nearly two years earlier with a decision to address the way and amount I was drinking. Like so many single women in their forties, I’d come to rely on alcohol as the companion I didn’t have, nor was at all aware I wanted. I should have been aware then. Things like reruns of Mad About You would make me want to top up my wine glass. That cute, smart, totally in love New York couple made me want to drink. It shouldn’t have taken a person who regards herself as reasonably intelligent a few years to work out what that meant.

  The journey I chose would be, without question, the most painful of my life and I had clocked up a few nasty episodes in my forty-five years prior: two car accidents, one near financial ruination, three retrenchments, several dead pets, an episode with the federal police thanks to the unbeknown-to-me criminal doings of a short-term lover, three major relocations, the divorce of my parents, several failed significant relationships, the death of an estranged father, the death of an adored mother. None of them compared to the pain of rebirth from my encroaching emotional dependence on alcohol. But of course, all of them, every single one of them, had their part to play in the crisis and they would have their role in the healing.

  The healing had been what had brought me to this point, on a late spring Friday afternoon in Byron Bay, ironing a new dress for a first date with a man from the Queensland coast. The healing had also been a journey of a lifetime; not only an emotional trip, but one that physically took me travelling to northern Europe for one very special, transformational summer.

  I’ve done a lot of travel in recent years, having been lucky enough to manoeuvre my career into a place where travel writing is now part of my bread and butter. One day I was emailing with my favourite editor, Sarah at The Sun-Herald’s travel section, after I had filed a story on a hotel called the Lord Byron in Rome.

  ‘Here’s an idea,’ I wrote to Sarah. ‘Me following in the footsteps of Lord Byron around Europe.’

  ‘You know, that’s a really great idea. You should do it,’ she answered.

  And that was how I suddenly had this calling to follow the adventures of a poet, perhaps the nineteenth century’s most famous poet, George Gordon, Lord Byron. Though the kernel of the idea appeared so effortlessly, it had been a calling. In the kitchen at Belongil, as I hung up from Angie and went back to getting ready for my date, I reflected on that.

  One minute, it had been this great idea. Hey, why don’t I go follow in the footsteps of Lord Byron around Europe? Seemingly the next, it was like I had gone through a magic metamorphism machine and been spat out the other end, a new version of myself.

  I followed Byron because I knew and loved him from my childhood. What he did while I traced his trail was introduce me to me. See, Byron was many things, but above all, he was a man who knew himself. Getting willingly close to him and his story, the self-knowledge apparently rubbed off more than a teensy bit.

  Lord Byron left England in 1816—a decision born of scandal—and would never return. His self-exile seemed an appropriate landmark to me. I too wanted to exile myself from inauthenticity, cut ties with the emotional stuff that no longer served me. Firstly I went to Geneva, because after crossing from England by ship, then travelling through Belgium by coach, the first place Lord Byron settled was in a rented villa on Lake Geneva in Switzerland for five months. Then he moved on to Venice and its surrounds, on the north-eastern Italian coast, stopping briefly in Milan on the way, so I did too. As he spent several years in the Veneto a good deal of my time was spent there also.

  From Venice he moved to Ravenna on the Adriatic coast as did I, and then on to Tuscany on the west coast, where Byron holed up in Pisa for a bit as well as spending a few months in Montenero and Genoa in Liguria. I put Pisa on my itinerary with the intent of exploring those other areas from my Pisan base.

  When he left Italy after some six years, Byron captained a boat from Genoa to the Ionian island of Cephalonia before heading to the Greek mainland at Messolonghi. This was where he died. And so I went to those places too, ending my own sojourn where his life journey ended.

  As I had three months to spare for the trip, I divided it up in accordance with the comparative amounts of time Byron spent in Switzerland, Italy and Greece. The time between Byron leaving England and his death worked out neatly to around eight years, or ninety-six months. If I did a day for every month in each of his locations, it would work out perfectly as a three-month itinerary. Lucky for me, he spent most of his time in Italy. But like they did for Byron, each of those three countries provided sweet inspiration for the stanzas in my ode to self.

  1

  Leaving

  Once more upon the water! Yet once more!

  And the waves bound beneath me as a steed

  That knows his rider. Welcome to their roar!

  Swift be their guidance, wheresoe’er it lead!

  Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, Canto III

  Standing on the deck of a creaking ship, his cloak waving in the wind, the sea spraying his divinely handsome face: heroic, majestic, magnificent. That’s my image of Lord Byron as he sails from England for the final time. But other than the fact that he wrote the first three stanzas of one of his most famous works on that voyage, the biographers of Lord Byron note little more than that he was seasick. Nearly 200 years on, that speaks to the rock star he was, the original celebrity about whom such mundane details are fascinating.

  Even some of the most respected literary critics have noted Lord Byron’s tendency to grow fat. You could be reading about some Hollywood starlet in a trashy magazine instead of one of the greatest poets of the English language and a towering figure of Romanticism. Like Britney Spears, Lord Byron fought with one of the most basic of human frailties, and perhaps the greatest source of modern Western insecurity—the battle of the bulge. And though he penned a plethora of outstanding verse, the cri
tics still chose to note it. Lord Byron might have been brilliant, but like Britney, just like you and me, pasta went straight to his midriff.

  Smart, funny, good looking, troubled, scandalous, sexually comme ci comme ça and a guy who would have been featured in the celebrity diets issue of People magazine, had he been alive today—that was Lord Byron.

  I think much of the poet’s enduring attraction is how he was celebrity and artist in equal measure. For me, though, his greatest allure is how he was absolutely courageous when expressing both those parts of himself. That’s why I like the lines that he wrote about beginning his journey to Europe and into a new life chapter, because they speak to that courage. Though he’s leaving England because scandal has driven him away, though nausea might buckle him, he stands straight again, defiant and brave, invoking the ocean as if it were God or fate itself and the voyage the divine plan. Bring it on, he is saying. I’m up for whatever life throws at me from here on. The sixteen-hour crossing from England to Brussels may have been short and stomach churning, but for him it was a voyage into the unknown and immensely portentous.

  One thing Byron did know for sure then was the power of travel, how it could shape a life. But he did not know how his own was to be changed. It had already been transformed profoundly and irreversibly by travel, seven years earlier, when he went on his first adventures. Like most young British men of means did as a rite of passage after they finished university, he had gone on the so-called Grand Tour after completing Cambridge. It was an interlude of months, years even, designed to give these heirs and noblemen experience of antiquities and art, culture and language. Byron’s gave him that, and a great deal more.